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    1. #1
      Caspeen's Avatar
        Caspeen is offline W101C Tournament Master
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      The Everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-derby Guide

      THE
      Everything-you-ever-wanted-to-know (and more!)
      GUIDE TO
      PET DERBY

      I realize there are already a few such guides out there, but good as each other guide is, there are still a number of items I feel that have not been covered. Hopefully I can provide an all encompassing, complete reference guide on this crazy thing called Pet Derby.

      To have more than just fleeting success in Derby, there really just two things you must have – a good pet and skills. But for the purpose of this guide, I will discuss on 3 major areas of focus that you should be familiar with so that you can better enjoy all that Derby has to offer – Derby Talents, how to train your pet, and strategies. Once I’ve touched on all of the above, I will dedicate a section to The Ultimate Derby Pet.

      However, before launching into all this, I will start with the assumption you only have a passing familiarity with Derby. Perhaps you got the quest, jumped into a ranked or practice match, and after the drubbing of a lifetime, you decided you would never come back because WOW, that was way complicated. For those like that, or for anyone simply just interested in getting the clearest explanation of the basics of derby because, hey, Pet Warlord sounds like fun!, I will start with the basics.

      THE BASICS

      While the ultimate goal of derby is to complete two laps faster than your opponent(s), there’s actually quite a bit more to it than it might sound. First I will discuss some very are basic terms that will come up over and over, then talk about some things you will see on screen, then finally give a quick overview about how one actually moves in Derby.

      Basic Derby Terms:

      Morale: Think of this like you do Health, or Mana, or as I like to think of it as Energy. Morale is how much Energy you have total, and this comes directly from your pet’s POWER stat. The higher it is, the more Morale (or Energy) you will have.
      Cheer: Cheer is how much Morale (energy) is used when you give yourself a speed boost. This is not a fixed number – how much Morale is used depends on the surface you are one when you cheer (use energy) and your pet stats.
      Cool Down: Every ability will have a Cool Down time, which is how long you have to wait before you can use this ability again.
      Buff: Any speed boost you have. If you cheer, you get 1 buff for 15 seconds. Some abilities can remove a buff from you.
      De-Buff: Anything that will slow you down. Running into a hurdle, someone trying to slow you down are examples of a de-buff, and an ability like immunity makes it so that de-buffs don't affect you.

      What You will See:

      A quick look at what you might see in a race might clear a few things up.


      1. Your Morale (Sparky's power of 222 translates to 77)
      2. The surface you are currently on (Grass here), and the amount of morale (Cost to Cheer) used if you cheer at that moment (3)
      3. The Ability you learned when your pet became a Teen
      4. The Ability you learned when your pet became an Adult
      5. The Abilities you WILL learn when Ancient and EPIC. (Nothing here as Sparky is only an Adult)
      6. Your standing (Sparky is in 1st), running time, and what lap you are on (Sparky is on lap 2 or 2)
      7. Boosts. (Sparky has 6 speed boosts on, and the last one will end in 10 seconds.)
      8. De-buffs. (Sparky hit a hurdle and which is slowing him down. The effects will end in 1 second.)
      9. Jump pad. The game is telling you to hit the space bar when you hit one of these to clear the hurdle
      10. A graphic depiction of where you are in the race. If you are in lane 1 (farthest to the right), you will be Gold, lane 2 is Orange, lane 3 is Blue, Lane 4 is purple.
      11. Your Morale gauge. When all Green, you are full. The Gold area depicts how much morale you will use IF you cheer right then. The larger the gold area, the more morale you will use, and the less reason why you should cheer then. Green area plus Gold area is what you have remaining.

      Not shown: Stars! Stars give speed boosts and immunity, but not all stars are the same. The stars you might see are listed below -
      Blue stars - speed boost for 8 seconds and immunity for 6 seconds
      Red stars - speed boost for 6 seconds and immunity for 6 seconds
      Yellow stars - speed boost for 4 seconds and immunity for 6 seconds.

      Moving:
      The next thing to know is that you can use Morale to go faster by hitting the up arrow. This is called cheering, but as I said, think of this as using energy to go faster. The boost of speed you get for each cheer lasts 15 seconds. Important to note – your pet moves forward regardless of whether you cheer or not. You will need to guide your pet left or right, or to jump or duck (space bar does both), but even if you don’t Cheer / use energy, you will still move forward and eventually finish the race. And unless you are desperate to get behind your opponent - as in, you want to steal their morale but they are behind you - don't use the DOWN area as this will slow you down.

      Exactly how much Morale you use each time you Cheer (also called Cost To Cheer) is determined by two factors – the surface your pet is on, and the stat your pet has for that surface.

      Strength – affects how much energy you use each time you cheer on Water
      Intellect – affects how much energy you use each time you cheer on Clay
      Agility – affects how much energy you use each time you cheer on Grass
      Will – affects how much energy you use each time you cheer on Dirt

      And to be sure, that’s the trained value of your stat, not necessarily the MAX value of that stat. So if your pet has MAX of 200 Strength, but your strength is only 1 because you haven’t played any games to boosts this stat, then it’s the value 1 that will determine how much Morale / Energy will be used when you cheer / use energy on Water.

      The amount of energy used each time you cheer always starts at 10 (when your stat is 1) and gradually goes down as you train your stat higher. Emphasis on gradually because each stat point added does NOT translate into better cost to cheer. For example, a stat of 199 has the exact same cost to cheer (in this case 5) as a stat of 239. As a general rule, though, higher is better, and knowing exactly where cost to cheer is an important concept that is discussed at greater length later.
      .
      For a discussion on how the surface and stats are related to morale / Energy, I will use a hypothetical pet that has the following stats 1/100/200/100. (note: when I use this format, the numbers represent Strength/Intellect/Agility/Will in that order. If a fifth number is used, the last number is always Power) These stats correspond to the following morale used with each cheer – 10 / 7 / 5 / 7. So, given this, you can see with a Morale of 73 (seems random, but that corresponds to a POWER stat of 200), if you are cheering only while running on water you will be able to cheer / boost your speed 7 times, or 10 times on Clay, or 14 times on Grass, or 10 times on Dirt. As such, you probably DON’T want to cheer on Water and DO want to spend as much time on grass as possible.

      So cheering uses Morale, and if you do nothing else, you can see you have a pretty limited amount of cheers you can do before you run out of it all. Fortunately, there are two ways you can add Morale back – via abilities, and by jumping over or ducking under hurdles. It goes without saying that if you want to be competitive at Derby you will have to get good at hurdles. Because each hurdle you clear successfully adds to your Morale, the better you get at hurdles, the more Morale you will have. The more Morale, the more speed boosts you can use. However, be aware that hurdles are not without trouble – should you run into one, you will slow yourself down for 4 seconds.

      Lastly, no race would be complete without using your ability / abilities. A discussion of what they are will follow, but for now it's sufficient to know that to use them, simply press the number button that corresponds to the number of each talent. The talents are listed in order that you learn them. As soon as you use an ability, it will be replaced by the amount of time before "cool down" period is over and it can be used again.

      In a nutshell, there you go. Your pet has Morale (think of it as energy), determined by your pet’s Power stat, and uses this morale to Cheer. Each cheer gives a temporary boost of speed and how much is used is based on the surface your pet is on and what his stat is for that surface. The higher his stat for that surface, the less morale is used to cheer, so the more cheering it can do before it runs out. Cheering uses up morale but it can also be added back with each hurdle cleared. And each pet has a unique package of abilities that can be used. Simple, no?

      DERBY ABILITIES

      Having a pet with good ability(s) is every bit as important, if not more so, than having good talents is for pvp. I won’t go into each and every one, but I’ll touch on a few things to keep in mind as you evaluate your pet(s) with a mind towards racing.
      The game uses a few different categories for classifying Derby Abilities and I’ve laid out several here. This is not a complete list, just a highlight:

      Speed boosts: talents like Super Hurry, Big Hurry, Hurry, Mega Boost. No surprise – they make you go faster
      Removes: Takes away things like speed or Morale. Siphonizer, or Super Pass.
      Steals: Similar to removes with one major difference. Removes takes things away, Steals take away and gives it to you! Sap, Leech, and Mega-Leech are a few.
      Locks: You can lock a pet into a lane, or you can prevent a pet from jumping or ducking. Eat my dust or Think Fast!, for an example.
      Lane changes: Forces others into different lanes. Musical lane and bananas! are a few.

      Though it’s handy to group abilities by what they do, for my purposes I’ve found it more beneficial to put them into three distinct groups – those that Help When Behind (HWB), those that Help When Ahead (HWA), and universal abilities. Important note: In ranked races it’s possible to be both ahead and behind at the same time since races will always have three or four racers. Being in 2nd or 3rd place has advantages! But in tournament races, which are run on practice courses, you are either Ahead or Behind since there are only two racers. Back to point, thinking of them in this way is important because even though the first two have some significant shortcoming, they might be ideal for you based upon your skill level. Think of an ability like Ultra-Mute – one of the more powerful abilities in the game, but completely useless if you never get ahead! Same for Spiffy Pop – a real life-saver, but completely useless if you are running out ahead. As a rule, I much prefer abilities that are universal because they are talents you can use throughout the race, regardless of where you are in relation to the other racers. For me, a talent you can use, say, 4 or 5 times a match is far more helpful than one that you use only once or even never at all. However, if you are just starting out, you may want to have one or more HWB ability because, chances are, that’s where you will be the majority of the race! Similarly, as you gain in skill and start to realize that you are always out front – perhaps getting a pet with more HWA abilities will be more beneficial.

      Regardless, in starting out it’s always a good idea to get at least one or more universal talent. And while there is nothing wrong with hedging your bets a little with a mixture, just realize that for the time you are in the lead all your HWB can’t be used, and when you are trailing everyone all of your HWA abilities are useless.

      Last word on Derby Abilities – just like PvP talents, the level of the ability does not necessarily correspond to how useful / powerful said ability is. Spritely, for example, is an Ultra-rare talent, but is arguably more desirable than all EPIC abilities besides Spell Proof. Similarly, there are many Ultra-rare Derby abilities that are far more powerful than some EPIC abilities, including Supercharge which may just be the most desirable of them all. To get an idea of which abilities are the “best”, see the last section regarding the Ultimate Derby Pet.

      HOW TO TRAIN YOUR PET

      Derby Pet Training Theory
      Now that you know a bit of the basics, and have an understanding of abilities, I’ll touch on the part of pet Derby that is least understood and can hold the key to success – How to train your pet. Important Note: If you know you are going to want an Ancient or Epic racer, skip this section entirely.

      This subject is more detailed than you might think because the basic truth is that training a Derby pet is much, MUCH harder than training a pet for PvP or questing. There are three key reasons for this –
      1. for a pvp or questing pet, more is better. No one would ever stop training their pet at, say, Adult, because if it went to Ancient it would be worse. However, because pets are matched up based upon their level, it’s entirely possible that a pet at Adult might be awesome, but when leveled to Ancient it’s not great due to the talents / abilities it manifests.
      2. Because of this, the element of maximizing your stats comes into play, and, contrary to what might seem obvious, more is not necessarily better.
      3. More variables! To get your ultimate PvP pet, you are looking for 4 perfect talents and 5 great stats. For an ultimate Derby pet you need all the above (perfect talents all being stat boosts!) PLUS 4 perfect derby abilities. More variables, more chances your pet will fail!
      However, before you can think about the specifics of training, you need to determine which approach you will want for your pet – balanced stats, or stack a few stats to max. Balanced stats are handy because you can cheer regardless of which surface you are on and you are thus not limited by where you go on the course. However, you aren’t GREAT on any surface, and therefore you will deplete your Morale that much faster. Maximizing a few stats, on the other hand, means that you will be awesome on some surfaces and terrible on others. As long as you can stay on the surfaces you are good on, you will be able to cheer a lot more and therefore go a lot faster. There are those that argue the merits of both philosophies, but for my pets they are all trained to be GREAT at some surfaces and dreadful at others. Invariably, my Teen and Adult pets have a stat (or more!) that I don’t train ANYTHING on, so on courses where there is very little surface that I’m trained for, my pet might be vulnerable to another pet maxed on that surface. This is very rarely the case.

      Once you determine which philosophy you will want to follow for your pet (hopefully it’s the latter), you now need to make sure you squeeze the absolute most out of your stats. As already noted, this really only applies to Teen and Adult pets because most Ancient and Epic pets will be able to MAX their stats before they make it to the next level. Nonetheless, it’s imperative to not waste any stats, and for this reason what games you play and what food you feed your pet are vital to your success.

      I mentioned earlier that as your stats go up, the amount of morale used to cheer on the different surfaces decreases, but unfortunately exactly where your cheer costs go down isn't published in the game anywhere. After much trial and error you'll learn that there is a pattern and it's knowing where the amount of morale changes to one less is a HUGE key to training a successful derby racer. Allow me to give an example.

      Your pet stats are 1/14/59/59/112 and you want to have a killer Teen racer. You want to get to 249/250 so you are JUST below being an Adult pet so you have the highest stats possible. You’ve spent most your training trying to get high stats for Agility and Will because you like running on Grass and Dirt. So far so good – the amount of morale you will use for cheering looks like this 10 on water / 10 on clay / 9 on grass / 9 on Dirt. You know if you give your pet a snack worth 5 or more, you will level your pet to Adult, so you need to stick to something 4. What snack do you get? Figuring it’s always good to get more morale, you go for Fairy Cake, so now your stats look like 1/14/59/59/116. How did you do?

      HORRIBLY! Because you have no idea where the amount of morale it costs to cheer changes, your pet is a disaster! FAIL!

      To understand why, allow me to introduce another concept – nowhere discussed in the game, mind you. It’s your pet’s Total Cheer Cost (TCC). The pet we have been using in this example so far as a TCC of 38 (10+10+9+9) TCC isn’t the ONLY measure for how good a pet might be, but it is a useful tool nonetheless.

      So, after feeding our pet here a snack, the amount of morale used for cheering is still 10/10/9/9=38. By adding 4 to your power you did increase your morale of 55 to 56, but otherwise what a waste! Had you only known the SECRET, you would have seen that giving your pet a Squash snack would have made a HUGE difference. With a stat line of 1/15/60/60/113, the amount of morale used to cheer is actually 10/9/8/8! Your Total Cheer Cost has gone from a 38 to a 35! Over the course of a race this difference can be huge and would certainly be the difference between a good pet and an OK pet.

      Using the example shows just how important it can be to know where the amount of morale used to cheer goes down one. This information is nowhere in the game, and can only be derived from lots and lots of testing and racing. And what you'll find is that for every 45 your stats go up, your cost to cheer goes down one! Like so...

      Your stat is The amount of morale used to cheer
      1 - 14 ................10
      15 – 59 ..............9
      60 – 104 ............8
      105 – 149 ..........7
      150 – 194 ..........6 (thanks to cresciinvalcava for pointing out that for so long I had 155 vs. 150!)
      195 – 239 ..........5
      240 – 284 ..........4
      285 - 329 ..........3
      330 - 374...........2
      375 and above....1!!!!!


      (the above pet belongs to Finnigan Moon and, thanks to Relentless, is the first known pet to have a cost to cheer of 1)


      There you have it – the numbers in bold are what you want to reach. These points at which the stats change I call “level spots”, because they are the spot where the amount of morale used to cheer goes down to the next level.

      Also, note that you can figure out the same “level spots” for power, although they are measured differently. You start with 40 Morale (Power is 1) and for every 6 points you add to power, you gain 1 Morale. This breaks down as follows:
      Power Morale
      0 .............40
      6 .............41
      12 ...........42
      18 ...........43
      24 ...........44
      32 ...........45
      36 ...........46
      42 ...........47
      48 ...........48
      54 ...........49
      60 ...........50
      66 ...........51
      72 ...........52
      78 ...........53
      84 ...........54
      90 ...........55
      96 ...........56
      102 .........57
      108 .........58
      114 .........59
      120 .........60
      126 .........61
      132 .........62
      138 .........63
      144 .........64
      150 .........65
      156 .........66
      162 .........67
      168 .........68
      174 .........69
      180 .........70
      186 .........71
      192 .........72
      198 .........73
      204 .........74
      210 .........75
      216 .........76
      222 .........77
      228 .........78
      234 .........79
      240 .........80
      246 .........81
      252 .........82
      258 .........83
      264 .........84
      270 .........85
      276 .........86
      282 .........87
      288 .........88
      294 .........89
      300 .........90

      Now, with this information, you can now work on maximizing your pet. Note that I don’t mean MAXING your stat, just getting the maximum out of what you have before making it to the next level. To illustrate the point of maxing your stat, take the following pet – 1/25/75/48/100. The amount of Morale used when cheering on this pet is 10/9/8/9 for a TCC of 36. However, there is a lot of waste on this pet! Since the amount of morale used to cheer changed from 10 to 9 when intellect stat hit 15, 10 points were wasted getting it to 25 since those extra points there did NOTHING to help. Similarly, there is 15 points wasted on Agility since the amount of morale used to cheer changed from 9 to 8 when it got to 60. So, knowing where the amount of morale used to cheer changes, the wasted points could have instead been used towards increasing WILL and POWER, brining the pet to 1/15/60/60/113. Not only has its TCC gone from 36 to 35 (10/9/8/8), but you’ve also increased POWER by 13, adding 2 to overall Morale.

      It should also go without saying that there are two ways to “waste” your stat gains – the above way, which is to increase stats beyond the point at which the amount of morale used to cheer changes, and an even more wasteful way – to train beyond your stat MAX. The Teen pet used in the example above is at 249 experience out of 250, and he is “using” every single point towards a stat. However, imagine that his Agility is only 50, not 75, but you really like doing the dancing game and so you kept playing even when you maxed at 50. At the end of training, you stop when you hit 249, but your stats look like 1/25/50/48/100. Notice now that the sum of your stats is in fact 224, even though your experience is at 249. By training past a stat MAX, you have wasted 25 points that you cannot get back! This is an example of the ultimate waste, and happens quite often when you reach a MAX too soon and continue to feed it snacks, or play games, that add to that stat or power.

      I’ve actually planned poorly in the past and maximized all my stats, only to discover I’m short 30+ and have only power that I can add to. In this situation, all you can do is play a game, intentionally get a zero (so not to “waste” points to stats that are right where I want them to be), then feed a snack like fairy cake to boost power. That adds another element of waste – a waste of time and Pet energy!

      Now that I’ve explain the theory behind training to get a Teen or Adult racer trained, let me walk you through how I train my pets that I want as an Teen or Adult Super Pet. Keep in mind, because I want to get the most of out this pet, I make a determination that I will train for a Teen or Adult pet BEFORE I actually start train it. Reason being, if I wait until it hits Teen, it might be too late to make it truly amazing!

      Training step by step
      1. Find a pet with good stats and known good talents. More is better, but I would want at least one stat to be 240 or better
      2. Train the highest stat exclusively. Since I like running on Grass, I prefer pets with high Agility and will train ONLY the dancing game (+4 to Agility) until teen.
      3. At teen I hope for a stat boost. Regardless of whether it does or doesn’t, I will now train main stat to 240, or 285, and start training second stat. If there isn’t a clear stat that I want to train as a second stat, I will train two separate stats just a little bit until I know which one will be higher.
      4. At adult I hope for a stat boost again. At this point you know exactly what you have to work with and will plan my training to hit as many “levels spots” on to maximize my TCC. My teen pet will have one stat maxed and the rest in Power, and my Adult pet will have two highest stats and Power maxed.
      Confused? If so, perhaps a Teen or Adult derby super pet isn’t in your future. Suffice it to say, there is a real “skill” to maximizing your pet’s stats, and knowing where the amount of morale used to cheer changes can make a significant difference.

      Just a few other points to touch on regarding training:

      Training stats vs Power
      If you ever get to a point where you’re unsure whether to put training towards a stats (to reduce the amount of morale you use when you cheer) or power (your morale total), keep this in mind. Adding power will add to the total morale you have available. This really only comes into play at the beginning of the race. Decreasing the amount of morale used to cheer, however, comes into play every time you cheer on that surface. This may not be significant if it’s a stat where you might go from a 10 to 9, or 9 to 8 because you wouldn’t want to cheer on that surface anyway. However, if it means going from a 4 to a 3, or 5 to a 4, the savings over the duration of a race could be huge.

      So, you have 50 points to train and you’re not sure if you should get to the next “level spot” for Agility, or simply add to power. Adding 50 points to Morale will add, say, 8. 8 morale translates into 2 “extra” cheers over the course of the race if the amount of Morale used when cheering on grass is 4. However, if you use those 50 points to increase your agility to, say, 285, and thus go from 4 to 3, if you cheer, say, 25 or more times on that surface, that’s a savings of 25+ morale.

      Ergo, unless it’s a surface you wouldn’t want to cheer on, go for a better stat if you know you can make it to the next "level spot" instead of adding to morale.

      Caution!
      Trying to stop your pet at the precise point before they level up is playing with fire. For starters, don’t forget about taking into account what snacks your pet likes or loves! I have failed on a pet that I was trying to hit 249 exactly, but inadvertently gave him a snack he loved which caused him to level to Adult.

      I’ve also leveled a pet by accidentally training him since he looked exactly like all my other pets. As such, it might not be a bad idea to stop training at 245, just before Adult, or 495, just before Ancient.

      STRATEGIES

      The previous section was pretty detailed and I’m quite certain I may have lost a few folks on that part. Given that most folks who race Derby simply use whatever pet they have that has the best abilities or stats, it may be moot to most. However, now I’ll discuss some strategies and hopefully this can be immediately helpful to anyone racing.
      • Start the race off strong: press the up arrow like mad, starting even before the gun goes off
      • The game gives you jump pads to tell you when to press the space bar, but do not try and time them. When close, simply hammer on the space bar like crazy to ensure you clear the hurdle.
      • Run on the inside: Running on the inner lanes when making turns can take several seconds off your final time. So helpful, in fact, that at Ancient and Epic it’s worth passing on a few hurdles that may be on the outer lanes to run on the inside.
      • Cheer on cobblestone: This seems obvious, but at Teen and for some at adult, it’s important to note that you should get to cobblestones at all cost – including running to the outer lane on a turn if need be. Hit the up button as many times as you possibly can.
      • Avoid mud: Not only does mud slow you down, but while on mud you cannot cheer. Even crossing over a mud lane will affect you.
      • If you have a talent that locks a lane: Try to lock your opponent into a lane that has mud. Requires skill and timing, but very, very effective.
      • If you have a talent that drops obstacles (like bananas, walls, oil slicks): These talents are best left for the 2nd lap because anything you put down will (potentially) affect you too! But even when you do, don't just drop them any place - put bananas, walls, oilslicks in front of hurdles so your opponents behind you can't use them. If you have stonewall (walls in all lanes), put those in front of mud so that your opponent is blocked from seeing the mud and might just go in it.
      • Remove your opponent’s cheer while they are on Cobblestone
      • If you have Spiffy Pop: Do not broadcast your ability! Do everything possible to stay in second place, but wait until the last 5 seconds of the race to teleport to the leader. Hopefully the leader doesn’t suspect your ability and has used up most of their morale to stay in the lead. Be sure to start your sprint well before the end and hopefully you have enough morale to power past the finish line first.
      • If you are racing a Fierce Hound or Sea Dragon: Chances are they have spiffy pop. Be cautious on the last stretch if you have a huge lead and your opponent seems to have given up because they are saving morale for the final sprint. If this is the case, stop cheering. Save morale. When it comes to the final sprint, cheer like mad!
      • Practice the courses! Each course is a little different, and some of them have some very tricky spots to navigate. Knowing what is coming will help you be prepared, and if you have lock abilities, or change lane talents, it can give you an idea of where the best places will be for your abilities.
      • If you are interested in joining tournaments, or just really want to show off in practice, choose a course that is best suited to your abilities. If you can generate morale, longer courses will be better for you. If you have high Agility, chose courses with lots of grass. Of course, you will have to practice each course to know what you are best suited for, but picking the right course can make a huge difference in the outcome against two evenly matched pets.
      THE ULTIMATE PET

      If you’ve been following everything so far, it’s should be obvious that the Ultimate Pet is a combination of a few different factors – the right talents, the right abilities, great stats, luck. And getting one is very, very hard. But not impossible. However, it all starts with the right pet

      The Best Pet
      Once people find out that I’m into Derby, the first question is usually what is the best pet. Since my Ultimate Pet has to be the result of (lots of) mixing, really and truly ANY pet could become the Ultimate Racer. However, I’ll answer this assuming you don’t want to spend months mixing pets and are hoping to use a first generation pet.

      (This list is VERY subjective!)

      3. Silverback Wildclaw: Can have Super Hurry and Super Charge, with Catch, Stonewall, Slick 'n Slide and a few other OK abilties as a possibility. Also, very good stats and 7 possible stat boosts.
      2. Sea Dragon: Can have Super Hurry, Supercharge, Spiffy Pop and Big Hurry, with Sap and a number of other good abilities. Also, best starting stats in the game, although NO chance at any stat boosts.
      1. Crimson Spectre: Can Have Super Charge, Super Hurry, Mega Leech, and Spiffy Pop, with a few other good abilities. Alas, this combo is only hypothetical - from what I've seen and heard, the talents that are most likey to manifest are ho-hum at best - bananas, slick 'n slide, musical lanes. Ugh. Very good stats as well and ONLY stat boosts for talents, so overall will have the bests stats of any pet.

      Honorable mention goes to Fierce Hound & Snowball. Both have all the makings of an Ultimate pet (Supercharge, Super Hurry, Big Hurry, Charge Up) PLUS Spiffy Pop and good stats, but lacks any stat boosts!

      Obviously, unless you have 1250 tickets just lying around, or you mix for one, the Crimson Spectre isn't an option to most. That said, a Silverback Wildclaw or Sea Dragon might be your best FIRST GENERATION potential racer. There is a reason that most high rank races were dominated by these two pets in particular for so long.

      Be aware that the level pet you are racing will influence this answer. If you are looking to get a pet to Teen, it's 100% your ability (you'll only have one) and how you train it, so just about any pet can do well. The higher the level you race, however, the more important max stats are, which is why if you have a level 48 pet you can run into challenges given the very low agility.

      Best Abilities
      As mentioned earlier in this guide, for me universal abilities are the best ones to have because they do not rely on you being ahead or behind and you can use them throughout the race. However, there are a few excellent abilities that are in the HWB (Help when Behind) and HWA (Help when Ahead) categories, and they may be more appropriate than some of the universal talents based on your skill level.

      Regardless, here is how I rate the top talents…

      10. Pipe Down! (Removes Cheer from next pet ahead for 12 seconds, HWB) / Big Rally (for tournament racing)
      9. Ultra-Mute (Removes Cheer from pet behind for 12 seconds, HWA) / Clear (for tournament racing)
      8. Charge Up (+10 Morale, 40 second cooldown, Universal) / Pipe Down! (for tournament racing)
      7. Mega-Leech (Steals 20 from next pet ahead, 60 second cooldown, HWB) / Ultra-Mute (for tournament racing)
      6. Supercharge (+15 Morale, 40 second cooldown, Universal) / Mega-Leech (for tournament racing)
      5. Bummer (Steal 10 from EVERYONE, 60 second cooldown, Universal) / Supercharge (for tournament racing)
      4. Big Hurry (+40 speed for 15 seconds, 30 second cooldown, Universal)
      3. Mega Hurry (+100 speed for 10 seconds, 50 second cooldown, Universal)
      2. Super Sap (steals 20 from leader, 40 second cooldown, HWB)
      1. Super Hurry (+50 speed for 15 seconds, 30 second cooldown, Universal)
      (A few changes here in my rankings. First, with improved talents that give +65 to a stats, I've downgraded Supercharge since at some levels supercharge isn't even necessary with the incredibly low cost to cheer. Also, Super Sap has come along and that ability can be powerful indeed. Also, Spiffy Pop has finally dropped off my top ten list. Though it “can” be very powerful with the right package of other abilities, as you become more skilled at racing, Spiffy Pop becomes easier and easier to defend against and beat.)

      Regarding the list, while it might be tempting to say that it’s ALWAYS better to get abilities higher on the list, if you are just starting derby or are still figuring it all out, then some HWB talents might be better than the higher ranked Universal talents.

      Also note that I've differentiated Ranked and Tournament abilties. Although Bummer, the 4th best ability to have in a ranked match as it could give you potential +30 morale while decreasing 10 from each competitor, AND it's universal, it doesn't even rank for Tournament racing simply because of the different formats. Ranked races are 1v3 or 1v4, where as most tournament races are simply 1v1. And since there is only one other racer in most tournament races, using bummer really is similar to a Leech or Sap, (though a much better one since it is universal.)

      Putting it all together – The Ultimate Pet
      As I’ve already mentioned, with mixing it’s possible to get any ability and talent onto any pet and 250 across the boards. Therefore, I won’t dwell on stats since more is obviously better. However, abilities (and talents) are worth mentioning.

      Talents: the best talents to get are whichever stat boosts will get you maximize your stats and give you the lowest possible TCC. Durable (+50 Agility) is awesome, but if your Agility is low anyway and your, say, Will is at 235, then Crafty (+50 Will) would be much better to get since it will make it so that you use 3 morale to cheer on Dirt.

      Abilities: I think it’s very telling that the winners of the Derby Tournaments (so far) have quite a bit of similarities. See if you can’t detect a pattern…

      Winning Teen Pets: Supercharge / Super Hurry / Mega Leech
      Winning Adult Pet: Supercharge & Super Hurry / Super Hurry & Mega Hurry
      Winning Ancient Pet: Supercharge, Super Hurry & Big Hurry / Super Hurry, Mega Hurry, Big Hurry
      Winning Epic Pet: Supercharge, Super Hurry, Big Hurry, and Stonewall / Supercharge, Super Hurry, Mega Hurry, Big Hurry

      Coincidence that Supercharge, Super Hurry, Mega Hurry and Big Hurry are all in my top 5? I think not!

      So, putting this all together, my idea of the ULTIMATE racer would have to be one of these:
      1. The All Around: Super Hurry, Mega Hurry, Big Hurry, Supercharge: Generates morale and speed. Powerful on any course and against any opponent, though especially strong on longer courses. MEGA: Add Charge Up
      2. The Sprinter: Super Hurry, Mega Hurry, Big Hurry, Hurry: Crazy fast! Excellent on short courses, but may suffer against high morale generating and stealing pets. MEGA: Add Mega Boost (Hurry is better because of the cooldown for Mega Boost is 30 seconds vs. 60 seconds).
      3. The Bully: Super Hurry, Mega Hurry, Big Hurry, Ultra-Mute: Fast and some morale generation, but the bully is hard to beat if he gets ahead. The perfect foil to Spiffy Pop. Excellent for the experienced racer, but can be a fail if racing against another pet that gets out front faster than you. MEGA: add Pipe Down!
      4. The Beast: Super Hurry, Mega Hurry, Super Sap, Ultra-Mute: Fast, with lots of potential morale generation. An all around beast because your opponent has to pick their poison - lose moral out front OR be muted when behind. The achilles heal of Super Sap is that a smart racer with a speed pet can sit behind until the last few seconds of the race then sprint ahead. Matching Super Sap with Ultra-Mute ensures that your opponent won't try THAT! MEGA: add Mega-Leech.
      Again, it goes to show how valuable the top three talents I have listed are since almost every version of my ULTIMATE pet include three of the same four abilities: Super Hurry, Mega Hurry, and Big Hurry.

      If I had to pick ONE pet that could NOT lose, it would be the Mega BEAST pet (Super Hurry, Mega Hurry, Super Sap, Mega-Leech, Ultra-Mute) with Brilliant (+65 Intellect), Cunning (+40 Agility, +25 Intellect), Early Bird (+40 Agility, +25 Will), Relentless (+65 Agility), and Thinkn' Cap (+65 Will) for an insane Cost to cheer of 4/2/1/2.

      Attached are screen shots of some of my pets. While none could be called ULTIMATE, they should give you a good idea of what a great Derby Pet can look like.

      Rufus
      (mixed from Gizmo and Winston)

      My Teen Superpet. Wish I could get Supercharge! Got 2nd in 1st Teen Pet Tournament to a blood creeper named Blue. TCC = 33

      Gizmo
      (a 1st generation Silverback)

      My Adult racer and first Super pet. Trained 34 Silverbacks before I got Super Hurry and Supercharge to manifest at Teen and Adult. Won 2nd Adult Pet Tournament, got 2nd at 3rd Adult Pet Tournament to a dreadful beast named Nikki. Plenty of waste on this one - could have used overage on Will, Agility, and Power to reduce cost on Clay from 7 to 6. Still, TCC = 24

      Baby Brutus / Brutus
      (mixed from Gizmo and Winston / Maximus and Winston)


      My Ancient Super Pets. Brutus replaced Baby Brutus because his TCC is better AND better Power. Brutus won 3rd Ancient Pet Derby Tournament. TCC = 16 / 15

      Maximus
      (mixed from Baby Brutus and Winston)

      My Epic Super Pet. Working, like crazy, to replace Stonewall. Won 1st Epic Pet Derby Tournament. TCC = 14

      EPILOGUE

      Hopefully this guide can be of some help.

      While Derby Racing may not be as complex, nor as demanding as PvP, there is considerably more to Derby than most think. In terms of challenges, and rewards. Good luck to you all - hopefully we'll meet on the track!

      Casp
      Last edited by Caspeen; 12-18-13 at 9:42:03 PM.

    2. #2
        funkyfrosty is offline Initiate Wizard

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      Re: The Everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-derby Guide

      thia is a amazing guide i cant even imagine how much time you put into this this thank you so much i learned a ton!

    3. #3
      The Last Specter's Avatar
        The Last Specter is offline Master Wizard
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      Re: The Everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-derby Guide

      Thanks a lot for this guide.

    4. #4
      thestrangerfrom's Avatar
        thestrangerfrom is offline Journeyman Wizard

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      Re: The Everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-derby Guide

      Seems an interesting guide caspeen, but i will take a look later on with calm. Right now i all did was like a scan it. I saw pretty much all my secret exposed xD but this will increase derby people meaning better chances to find another good racer and why not the next nemesis or something like that.

    5. #5
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      Re: The Everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-derby Guide

      Wow you have an amazing guide, the time and effort, I would be happy to give you a award that says you are the most knowledgeable person in this department, with a 2,000 something Arena rank, and a 1,000 something pet rank, you got talent

    6. #6
      Caspeen's Avatar
        Caspeen is offline W101C Tournament Master
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      Re: The Everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-derby Guide

      Quote Originally Posted by <strong>thestrangerfrom View Post
      Seems an interesting guide caspeen, but i will take a look later on with calm.
      you have no calm right now? Hehehe, why is that?

      As the owner of one amazing Teen Pet, and an Tournament Winning Adult pet, perhaps you can share a screen shot or two?

      And don't worry, you won't be replaced as my nemesis for a long, long time....



      Casp

    7. #7
      matt0910's Avatar
        matt0910 is offline Novice Wizard

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      Exclamation Re: The Everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-derby Guide

      ok so i was reading the rules, and i looked back over them after i joined. my pets pedegree is above 33 does that mean i have tofind another pet?

    8. #8
      Caspeen's Avatar
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      Re: The Everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-derby Guide

      Matt - I think this post is for the Derby tournament, not the guide here.

      Regardless, the answer is yes - all pets must have a Pedigree of 33 or less. The good news is they are not hard to find, or you can try mixing as well since the cost to mix should be pretty low.

      Casp

    9. #9
      matt0910's Avatar
        matt0910 is offline Novice Wizard

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      Unhappy Re: The Everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-derby Guide

      ok caspeen thanks for answering but i have another question, i have this dark fairy queen pet. The rules say it has to be mixed to be able to have a pedigree of 34, but my queen hasnt been mixed and has a pedigree of 34 what do i do about that

    10. #10
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      Re: The Everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-derby Guide

      Idk if this is the right place to post this, but the Scarecrow pet in test realm has a derby talent called Bummer. Its effect is steal 10 morale from everyone. Would you consider this a good talent? And if so what would you rate it? Thanks for the guide, btw.
      Learned how to make a siggy almost a year after joining. :P

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